AC-Appliance Pros
Do It Yourself
Heating
The Problem Solver
A furnace is not a household appliance. It is complex and
requires professional maintenance and repair.
That's why attempts at "do-it-yourself" repairs
on an in-warranty unit may void the remainder of your warranty.
Other than performing the simple maintenance recommended in
this manual, you should not attempt to make any adjustments to
your furnace. Your dealer will be able tot take care of any questions
or problems you may have. A periodic inspection of your furnace
should be made by a qualified service agency at the start of
each heating season.
Keep your furnace looking like new for years.
Clean the enamel finish of your furnace with ordinary soap
and water. For stubborn grease spots, use a household detergent.
Lacquer thinner or other synthetic solvents may damage the finish.
Save time and money. Before calling for service,
check the following:
| Problem |
Possible Trouble |
Possible Remedy |
| No Heating - Blower does not operate |
1. Thermostat set incorrectly.
2. Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
3. Defective component.
4. Burner does not ignite.
5. Main gas line turned off.
6. Blower door removed or ajar.
7. Lockout |
1. Adjust thermostat See operating
instructions
2. Replace or reset protective device or call for servicer.
3. Most controls are automatic and will recycle. If your unit
still does not operate call for servicer.
4. Call servicer.
5. Have gas company check.
6. Close door securely to restore power to blower and gas valve.
7. Turn power on-off-on-off twice in 30 secs. |
Insufficient Heating - Blower operates
continuously
No Heat - Vent motor is running |
1. Dirty air filters.
2. Blocked supply or return registers.
Restricted or plugged furnace condensate drain. |
1. Clean or replace filters.
2. Make sure registers are open and no obstacles blocking off
the air.
1. Remove drain clamps to condensate trap and drain pan outlet
2. Flush or clear drain blockage.
3. Reinstall clamps. |
| Unusual Noise |
|
Call your servicer |
Do away with surprise repair bills with a Service Agreement
Service Agreements may be available from your Dealer or Installer.
The agreement has the following advantages:
1. Established cost for service resulting from normal usage
2. No need for an unexpected service cost to "upset"
budgeted expenses
3. Includes both parts and labor for the duration of the Agreement.
Be certain you read the Agreement for complete details and exclusions.
4. Service is performed by servicers knowledgeable of the operation
of this equipment.
Heat Pumps
A Residential Split System Heat Pump is a year 'round comfort
system. In the summer it draws heat out of your home to keep
it cool, and in the winter it draws heat from outside air into
your home to keep it warm. Many heat pump installations have
a booster elecrical resistance heater that automatically supplements
heat brought in from the outside. Outside air always has heat
in it - even at very low outdoor temperatures.
Like a central air conditioning system, it includes a compressor,
a fan, outdoor coil, indoor coil, and a refrigerant. A Heat Pump
uses electricity as its power source, and requires:
- An outdoor Heat Pump section
- A matching indoor gas (natural or propane) or oil furnace
with coil, or air handler
- Ductwork to transfer the heated or cooled air throughout
the home.
IMPORTANT: Before you
turn your heat pump on!
1. Be sure the electrical power has been turned on at the
outdoor unit for at least 8 hours. In cold weather 12 hours is
better. This is to prevent damage to your compressor.
2. Be sure all supply and return grilles are open and not obstructed
3. Check to see that your indoor unit has clean air filters installed
to prevent clogging the fins on the coil.
How Your Heat Pump Works
Cooling
During the cooling season, your Heat Pump works like any other
summer air conditioner. It uses an indoor coil, a compressor
and an outdoor coil to move heat from inside to outside. Fans
move air across the coils and circulate air in the conditioned
space. A thermostat turns the fans and compressor on and off
as cooling is needed. Hotter weather means more cooling is required,
so your unit will run longer. When the temperature is highest,
the unit may run continuously for several hours.
Heating
In the heating season, the use of the coils is reversed. The
outdoor coil picks up heat form the air and the indoor coil releases
this heat to warm your home. Colder weather increases heat needed
and the unit runs longer. In most areas the temperature will
sometimes drop low enough that the Heat Pump will run continuously.
This outdoor temperature at which the heat needed is equal to
your heat Pump's capacity is known as the system "Balance
Point". This temperature will vary with each installation,
depending on the heat loss of the home and the size of the heat
pump selected. Below the Balance Point, the Heat Pump will run
continuously and the auxiliary electric resistance heat will
be cycled on and off by the thermostat, as needed. Your Heat
Pump will continue to operate efficiently at outdoor temperatures
below 0°F.
Heat Pumps operate with much lower air temperatures than gas
furnaces and other types of heating equipment. The air coming
from supply grilles and registers will be only 15° to 30°
warmer than the air in your home. It will feel cool if it blows
directly on you but will provide the heat needed to keep your
home warm and comfortable.
Defrost Cycle
When the outdoor temperature drops below 45°, frost may
start to form on the outdoor coil. Frost buildup will be heaviest
on damp days with the temperature at 35° to 40°. The
Heat Pump has an automatic control which will reverse the system
and stop the outdoor fan to defrost the coil when needed. Some
units operate on a timer at 45 to 90 minute intervals. Others
have an electronic control which senses coil and air temperatures
to determine when a defrost cycle is needed. They may go as long
as 6 hours between defrosts. The coil may be almost completely
covered with frost at some times. Don't worry unless it continues
to build up a thicker layer with areas of hard clear ice. If
excessive ice buildup should occur, call your serviceman.
When the Heat Pump is defrosting, a cloud of steam may rise
from the outdoor unit for a short time. This is normal and harmless.
The water which runs from the defrosting coil must be drained
away from the unit. Snow drifts must be kept cleared away to
prevent ice buildup in the coil from defrost water.
Important things to remember about the Defrost Cycle.
1. Water must drain away from the coil and unit to prevent
damage from ice buildup. Keep snow cleared away.
2. The outdoor fan stops. The unit may make some strange hissing
or gurgling noises and a cloud of steam. They are normal.
3. Call your serviceman if you notice excessive frost and clear
ice buildup.
How to Operate Your Heat
Pump
The control center for your Heat Pump is your thermostat.
Many different types are used, but they are similar to operate.
Your thermostat will have switches to select some or all of
the following functions.
COOL - Turns cooling on when temperature rises above
setpoint.
HEAT - Turns Heat pump heating on when temperature drops below
setpoint. If room temperature drops another 2°, turns on
the auxiliary resistance heat. Heat Pump continues to run.
AUTO - Turns on cooling or heating as required to maintain
setpoint. Most thermostats have at least 4° separation between
heating and cooling settings.
OFF - Turns heating and cooling modes off (Fan may
still run in Fan-on).
FAN-ON - Turns fan on for continuous operation.
FAN-AUTO - Fan cycles on and off with cooling or heating
operation.
EMERGENCY HEAT - Turns Heat Pump compressor and outdoor
fan off and provides heat from electric strips only. Use this
switch to manually turn the Heat Pump off and change to the auxiliary
heat in case of Heat Pump problems.
A lever is used to set the temperature that you desire. Some
thermostats have two levers, one for heating and one for cooling.
Lights may be used to indicate that the auxiliary electric
heat is operating. The lights may be different colors on different
types of thermostats. Typical lights will be blue or green for
normal auxiliary heating and red for emergency heat.
For the most economical operation of your system, select the
highest summer setting and the lowest winter setting at which
you are comfortable. Typical temperatures are 78° on cooling
and 70° on heating. Your operating cost is increased from
3% to 8% for each degree lower setting in cooling and for each
degree higher setting in heating. When heating, let the Heat
Pump do the work whenever possible. Do not change temperature
settings more than necessary. If you turn the temperature setting
up 2° or more you will bring on the auxiliary resistance
heat. This costs more to operate than the Heat Pump.
Night Setback Thermostats
Night setback thermostats are available to automatically turn
the temperature down at night and back up in the morning. Only
Setback thermostats with gradual, incremental or "intelligent"
recovery should be used with Heat Pumps. Setback thermostats
without gradual recovery will use the electric strip heaters
to warm the air in the morning, and may use more electricity
than was saved during the night. Ask your contractor for advice
before installing a Setback or "Energy Saving" thermostat.
Heat Pump Monitor
A control called a Heat Pump Monitor may be installed with
your system. If so, it will check the performance of your Heat
Pump and turn it off if a problem occurs. It will switch to the
auxiliary heat and turn on the Emergency Heat Light on your thermostat
to tell you that the system requires attention.
Operating Economically
Here are other ways to save electricity and improve your system's
performance.
1. Keep all grilles and registers open and clear of obstructions
such as drapes or furniture.
2. Keep doors and windows closed.
3. Be sure all air ducts are well insulated and sealed with a
vapor barrier.
4. Let the sun in during the winter. Keep it out during the summer.
5. Be sure clothes dryers are vented to the outside. (Away from
your outdoor unit.)
6. Fireplaces are pleasant, but most fireplaces bring in more
cold outside air for combustion and flue draft than the heat.
Your Heat Pump may actually run more!
7. Use kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans only when necessary.
8. Add insulation, storm windows and insulated outside doors.
Seal cracks to prevent air leakage.
9. Keep your filters clean. Reduced air flow in your unit reduces
efficiency.
10. Operate your indoor fan on AUTO. It costs less and will provide
better humidity control in the summer.
11. Keep lamps, TV's and other heat sources away from your thermostat.
12. Leave the power on at the outdoor unit at all times. If you
have a power failure, leave your Heat Pump off until power has
been back on as long as it was off, up to 8 hours. Switch to
Emergency Heat if needed while Heat Pump is off.
13. Protect the outdoor unit from roof runoff to prevent excess
ice buildup.
Maintenance for Your Heat
Pump
DANGER: Shut off electrical
power before performing any maintenance to prevent serious injury
from shock.
Filters
Keep your air filters clean. You may have any one of these
types:
1. Glass Fiber (throwaway) - replace these when dirty. Do
not clean.
2. Plastic Fiber or Foam - vacuum clean and reinstall these.
3. Aluminum Mesh - wash with detergent and water. Always recoat
these per the manufacturer's instruction. They will not filter
out dust and dirt without the adhesive coating.
Filters should be checked at least once a month and cleaned
or replaced when needed. Replace throw away filters at least
twice a year.
Lubrication
The compressor requires no oiling or other maintenance. The
fan motors have prelubricated sleeve bearings and may not require
attention for an indefinite period of time. However, our recommendations
are as follows.
1. Motors without oiling ports - Prelubricated and sealed.
No further lubrication should be required, but in case of bearing
problems, the blower and the motor end bells can be disassembled
and the bearings relubricated by a qualified service person.
2. Motors with oiling ports - Add from 10 to 20 drops of Electric
Motor Oil or an SE grade of non-detergent SAE 10 or 20 motor
oil to each bearing every two years for somewhat continuous duty,
or at least every five years for light duty. Take care not to
over oil, because excessive lubrication can damage the motor.
In any event, clean the indoor air blower motor periodically
to prevent the possibility of overheating due to an accumulation
of dust and dirt on the windings or on the motor exterior. And,
as suggested elsewhere in the instructions, the air filters should
be kept clean because dirty filters can restrict airflow. The
indoor air blower motor depends upon sufficient air flowing across
and through it to keep from overheating.
Cleanliness
Keep the outdoor coil clean and free of restrictions. Free
air flow is essential. Keep fences, shrubs, snow drifts or other
obstructions at least two feet from all coil air inlets.
Keep the coil free of grass clippings, weeds, leaves, etc.
Turn electricity off before cleaning!
Cleaning and waxing the cabinet of the outdoor unit with automotive
polish will improve its appearance and extend the life of the
finish. Never use a weather cover over the outdoor unit, even
if it is turned off for long periods of time. A cover will hold
moisture in the unit and cause more rust buildup and damage to
electrical parts than exposure to weather.
Never use your Heat pump as a stand for garden hoses or tools.
Do not permit children to play near its moving parts or electrical
components. Use caution with lawn mower and trimmer to avoid
damaging refrigerant piping or electrical wiring.
Keep your filters clean!
Protecting Equipment from
the Environment
The metal parts of this unit may be subject to rust or deterioration
in adverse environmental condition. This oxidation could shorten
the equipment's useful life. Salt spray, fog or mist in seacoast
areas, sulphur or chlorine lawn watering systems, and various
chemical contaminants from industries such as paper mills and
petroleum refineries are especially corrosive.
WARNING: Disconnect all
power to unit before starting maintenance!
1. Avoid having lawn sprinkler heads spray directly on the
unit cabinet.
2. Frequent washing of the cabinet, fan blade and coil with fresh
water will remove most of the salt or other contaminants that
build up on the unit.
3. Regular cleaning and waxing of the cabinet with a good automobile
polish will provide some protection.
4. A good liquid cleaner may be used several times a year to
remove matter that will not wash off with water.
Several different types of protective coatings are offered
in some areas. These coatings may provide some benefit, but the
effectiveness of such coating materials cannot be verified by
the equipment manufacturer.
The best protection is frequent cleaning, maintenance and
minimal exposure to contaminants.
In case of Heat Pump Problems
1. Check to see that electrical power is on. Check breakers
or fuses for both indoor and outdoor units.
2. Check to see that air flow is not restricted. Indoors, check
grilles, registers and filter. Outdoors, check coil and see that
the fan is running. (Remember it stops for a short time during
defrost cycles).
3. Check to be sure your thermostat is set properly. System switch
should be on HEAT, COOL or AUTO as appropriate. Temperature set
point must be above room temperature on heating or below room
temperature on cooling for system to start.
Call your Serviceman If:
1. you observe excess ice buildup.
2. You hear new, unusual noises.
3. The Heat Pump is short-cycling (turning on and off rapidly)
and not heating or cooling properly.
4. Annually for a routine check.
Periodic inspections by your professional serviceman will
help to deep your Heat Pump operating at peak efficiency and
reduce the chance of major repairs.
If you don't know which firm to call, ask if the contractor
is a member of the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA).
consumers can call (972)247-5383 or 1-800-260-8041 to confirm
the contractor is a member or to locate a contractor who subscribes
to the organization's code or ethics.
©2007 AC-Appliance Pros All Rights Reserved
1701 North Greenville Ave. Suite 606
Richardson, Texas 75081
972-664-0055
TACL B00027067E
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